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Day 13

Lucky 13…fortunately nothing went wrong! First job was to fit the wheels which had been picked up from the factory. One word….huge. Although despite the size of the wheels, they could be lifted with one hand, and were significantly lighter than ‘regular’ road wheels which were smaller in width. These were fitted to the hubs using the wheel bolts that came with the wheels. The centre caps were left off at this stage.

The Ultima with the wheels on finally!

The stay for the front clam was bolted into position (previously the holes had only been drilled), so that the clam could be lifted without it being damaged to aid the fitment of the latches. It was found that the clam caught slightly on the front wheel when it was opened, but it was decided that this would be attended to later once the body had been fully fixed and windscreen was in place. The theory being that this would totally set the final position of the body, and it would be quite possible that adjustments to the clams position would be necessary to get a good fit once the latches were in place.

The front and rear latches were fitted into place using the M4 button head bolts supplied, which fitted through the latching mechanism and into the fibreglass with a washer the other side. Small marks on the bodywork were present and used as a guide when drilling the holes. Once the release cable were fitted and routed into the side pod, the latches were fitted and tightened slightly, and the clam was lowered so that the latches engaged. The latch was then released and any adjustments to get a good fit were made before the clam was lowered again. The latch position was used to pull the clam into place to get a good equal fit on both sides of the body.

Once we had spent a short time adjusting the clams so that the panel gaps were neat and even across the width of the car and the same front to back, there was a fair degree of small tidying jobs to be done, including fitting the remaining rivets between the central cockpit bodywork section and the chassis, tidying up and clipping the brake lines into place, cleaning tape and adhesive from the alloy panels and making sure the wiring was all neatly in position and attached appropriately to the chassis.

Once these small jobs had been done, the lights, both front and rear, were fitted to the clams. The front lights turned out to be quite a fiddly job, as a fair bit of sanding was required to get the lights to fit in the holes neatly without any gaps, as the holes were too small for the lights initially. Once this had been done, it was found that the captive nuts for the lights were loose, so a fair amount of time was spent bonding the bolts in and fitting the lights neatly into the pods. The back lights were far more straight forward, and really looked good placed in the clam, as they were the newly issued led style rear lights released by the factory.

Rear LED Lights

The fuel tanks were manoeuvred into the correct position inside the side pods; they were already in place, but needed slight tweaking, and the anti vibration foam that wedges between the tanks and the side pods was bonded into place using the mastic. This was quite a fiddly job because of the lack of room but was done with some cut knuckles eventually. Once the foam was in place and the tanks were secure (apart from riveting the back panel of the tank to the side pod which was left until later), the fuel cap covers and fuel pipes from the caps to the tanks were fitted. This was straight forward; the fuel caps were lined up with the axis of the car so that they looked equal both sides, then the holes for the 8 countersunk allen bolts were drilled in the bodywork. Mounting the fuel pipes before fitting the caps made the pipe fitting a lot easier than it could otherwise be, and after tightening up the allen bolts, the caps were done. The fuel pipes were tightened using the jubilee clips provided.

Fuel Cap

Outside of the workshop, some serious consideration was being done to the dashboard design and layout. After several concept sketches, a couple of the designs were taken forward for modelling in CAD, tweaked, and the final design is shown below. This enabled us to get the layout exactly as we would like it, and made it easy to tweak the design if necessary. The design uses a custom manufactured carbon fibre console panel for mounting of some of the controls, as well as the screen, which will be used in conjunction with a reversing camera.

The proposed dash design

The runners were fitted to the seats and the bolt holes for the runners were marked out in the floor of the car according to the dimensions given in the instructions. The seats were then removed and the holes were then drilled, and then painted with black Hammerite to stop rusting.

At this stage, with the wheels on and the clams in place, we decided to lower the car off the build stand temporarily in order to get a better feel for what the car will look like, purely for curiosity! A jack with a suitably high lift but low entry height was purchased specifically for working on the Ultima, and this was used to lower the front of the car first. Once we got about half way, we used a transmission jack to support the front of the car whilst we removed the stand from the rear of the car and lowered this down to the floor. The jack was then used to lift the front of the car off the transmission trolley, this was then slid out and the front lowered to the floor using the trolley jack. Simple!


Just Doors UK sponsoring MacG Racing
Millers Oils Motorsport Nanodrive from MacG Racing
CSF Radiators from MacG Racing
Braid Wheels
Wavetrac Differentials from MacG Racing
Quantum Racing Suspension sponsors MacG Racing
Albins Performance Transmissions sponsors MacG Racing
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