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Day 8

The next item to be installed on the car was the brake system. This was done since the brake discs were used as a datum for setting up the suspension geometry, and this had to be done before the side pods and luggage containers were put onto the car. The hoses had been previously routed from the pedals to the appropriate corners of the car, and had been temporarily fixed in place, so it was just a case of sliding the discs onto the hubs. These were all put on simply, and some Ford wheel nuts were used to make sure the discs stayed flush against the hubs in order to ensure accuracy of the geometry measurements.

It seemed logical to next do the geometry setup, since all the steering was correctly installed as were the rear suspension units. A string box was setup round the car using angle iron clamped to the chassis at the front and back, and tying some string to the front angle iron, then pulling it taught and tying it to the angle iron at the rear. We then measured from the centre of the chassis at both the front and rear and adjusted the string position on the angle iron so that the strings were equidistant from the centreline of the chassis either side, so that a symmetrical and parallel box was formed round the chassis. The height was then adjusted so that the strings passed through the line through centre of each hub, and the lateral position was then double checked to ensure it had not change during the height adjustment.

The geometry was then setup as per the instructions supplied with the car, measuring from the front and rear of each brake disc to the string line, in order to check the toe, and a spirit level was used to check the camber as per the build manual. This was a lengthy process, however it is an important one if you are looking to get the most out of the handling of the car as we are. We will use these settings as a start point, then when we become familiar with the cars handling we will start to alter these settings in order to tweak the handling for optimum performance.

Whilst Waiting for a second pair of hands to help me setup the string box for the geometry setup and help me measure and adjust the geometry, I untangled the wiring loom and went through the wiring diagram (a new diagram was supplied to us from the factory since the original one is obsolete as I soon discovered after a few minutes of total confusion!) in order to make sense of what was what. I then laid the wiring loom out onto the car and routed it as I saw appropriate with some help from the photos in the build manual. Although these were vague and mostly as good as useless, the few that I found useful were enough to properly route the wires so that the next stage of the build could be carried out. The dash wires were the obvious place to start as these were self explanatory, and the front and rear sections of the loom were routed accordingly. The wiring loom was taped to the chassis using Gaffer tape as a temporary measure as can be seen in the pictures.

Since wiring seemed to be everywhere, it made sense to try to tidy up a few of the ends, so the fans were connected up and routed properly, and the air conditioning unit was installed. This was relatively straightforward, and we rivetted it to the chassis rather than using the supplied ‘riv-nuts’, simply because it was quicker and easier. The Air-con unit was then wired up, and the some small sections of ducting that directed air under the dash were cut to length and installed.

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Just Doors UK sponsoring MacG Racing
Millers Oils Motorsport Nanodrive from MacG Racing
CSF Radiators from MacG Racing
Braid Wheels
Wavetrac Differentials from MacG Racing
Quantum Racing Suspension sponsors MacG Racing
Albins Performance Transmissions sponsors MacG Racing
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